Ford Expedition heater core replacement. Step by step showing hidden fastners Etc. Most proceedures are the same for Pickup models
Tags: core, Expedition, Ford, Heater., replacement
Ford Expedition heater core replacement. Step by step showing hidden fastners Etc. Most proceedures are the same for Pickup models
Tags: core, Expedition, Ford, Heater., replacement
Ok, pretty much used this video as a guide. I would say it was about 98% accurate. Took me about 14 hours with various trips to the auto parts store. Disconecting the Heater hoses was a real pain even with the tool from autozone. Also, the dash sure doesn’t just slip right out! LOL Anyway, i think if i had to do it again I could go start to finish in about 7 hours. Thanks for the great video. Saved me 7-800 bux I’m sure. It was not fun for sure. LOL
Ok, pretty much used this video as a guide. I would say it was about 98% accurate. Took me about 14 hours with various trips to the auto parts store. Disconecting the Heater hoses was a real pain even with the tool from autozone. Also, the dash sure doesn’t just slip right out! LOL Anyway, i think if i had to do it again I could go start to finish in about 7 hours. Thanks for the great video. Saved me 7-800 bux I’m sure. It was not fun for sure. LOL
@MARCBUSH3271 – I feel your pain! Try a heater core on a 2000-or newer Jeep full sized if you want to know suffering… The Taurus was also a hummer, but after doing 10 or so of them you get it down…
GOD DAMN FORD FOR THIS.
@m561gammagoat – yep
Ok, this looks like my truck, mine is a 1998 exped. XLT is this the correct procedure?
@ZR1Zoomer – You need to drain and fill the system with water and a flushing agent. Let it run through several thermostat cycles and drain out. Repeat until clean. Finish with the water hose to get all the soap out. Make sure to pull block drains or your wasting your time. (most shops do poor coolant flushes/waste of money) I use a homemade tool that injects compressed air with the water. turbulent and effective. Follow the ground cables to the engine for location.
ok thanks. can i flush the system out just by removing the thermostat and upper radiator hose and using a garden hose to flush it out? or should I take it in and have it done? as for the engine grounds where can I locate those?
@ZR1Zoomer – @ZR1Zoomer – Many causes; bad core, electrolosis from coolant contamination, cavitation, suspended particle blasting, bad engine ground, crankshaft crack/bearing issue (monitor voltage in coolant when hot/under load; .2-3v big trouble) Recommend; 1) OEM heater core- 2) Drain out block and water/air flush every component- 3) Run a flush agent or tsp and water/flush out again 4) 50% coolant/distilled water- 5) Check engine grounds 6) Add ground strap to heater core (voltage prob)
Hey it’s me again. About 10 months ago I replaced my heater core using this vid…and now as of yesterday I’m getting that nasty smell again through the vents and the car is starting to leak antifreeze from under the passenger side of the vehicle. I know it’s my heater core again, but any guesses as to why it went bad again so soon? at least I can replace my blend door this time too though, but still it’s going to be a pain to have to do this again. any tips so that I wont have to do this again?
@airsoftplayer423 I had the same problem with my f-150. You should check your vaccum lines. I just needed to replace a vaccum hose on mine because it was pinching, restricting air flow so it could not transition. The hose for me was like 2 bucks.
@airsoftplayer423 – Best practice is to check all of them in the engine compartment and dash. Some automotive systems will use 3 or more fuses in seemingly unrelated systems to power controls of different types. Use a test lamp that is grounded and check for power at both tabs protruding out of the fuse top with the key “on”
@shopken1 thanks, what fuse would i be looking for.
@airsoftplayer423 – Test all fuses first, then the mode motor. (you will most likely need a book like a Climer or Haynes & a schematic to chase it out) Verify that it makes any noise or attempt to move when the mode control knob is cycled from defrost to floor. If the motor tries to move, suspect something in the case blocking the mode motor (like a ball point pen down the defroster duct) otherwise- pin test from the control head to find it. (Sorry, a fuse is the only potential easy fix)
i have a 2001 expedition eb the air will not divert from panel to floor just comes out defrost vents. is there an easy fix
@acastro817 — Pretty close
i drive a 97 f-150 same body style and the exact dash but my truck doesnt have a center console…… these steps should work for me as well right?
Thanks
killer video there’s all you need right here! they made it simple
@josesant10 — I would not do it without pay either. Dont blame the friend for that.. they already helped out once. Shops can charge 650 to 1000 bucks to do this job.
The actuator can be removed without full heater case removal but its not easy to do. Once fasteners are removed (rear ones pretty tight quarters) I dont remember if the case needs lifted or not (I work on hundreds of models and my mind can mix them together)
I would not recommend this job if your not familiar with repair.
@mine1username — Check out a video I have called Avalon dash pull. Now THATS a tough dash to pull! It was not intended for removal for heater core/common failure jobs.
@josesant10 — I would not do it without pay either. Dont blame the friend for that.. they already helped out once. Shops can charge 650 to 1000 bucks to do this job.
The actuator can be removed without full heater case removal but its not easy to do. Once fasteners are removed (rear ones pretty tight quarters) I dont remember if the case needs lifted or not (I work on hundreds of models and my mind can mix them together)
I would not recommend this job if your not familiar with repair.
@josesant10 – No need to remove
My problem is that the actuator is bad or the blend door is stuck. I had a friend replace my heater core a few months ago but now I have no air. I took it to ford and thats what they told me. However my so called friend does not want to do work again without getting paid again. I find it to be unfair. So I’m atempting it on my own. Is there an easier way to get to the actuator without removing everything?
shopken1 this is my first time trying to do this..Iviewed the video but i didn’t see anywhere for me to remove radio or the heater/air control panel. There is no need to removed these parts?